Tuesday, December 15, 2009

Latkes

Hot potatoes

Warm up your holidays with simple, irresistible golden-fried latkes

By Adam Ried | December 6, 2009

Latkes -- golden fried potato pancakes flavored with onion -- afford a great deal of pleasure with just a few ingredients. Traditional at Hanukkah and welcome any time, they have a mild flavor that is pure comfort, and the two textures, crisp on the outside and creamy (not soggy) on the inside, always please. Many recipes include flour or matzo meal, but I think those ingredients weigh down the latkes. Instead, I add baking powder to lighten the mixture.


Latkes (Potato Pancakes)

Makes about 10 3-inch pancakes

This recipe doubles well, but use only 3 eggs instead of 4. Latkes are at their very best fresh out of the oil, but they can be kept warm briefly (long enough to finish frying subsequent batches) on a paper-towel-lined baking sheet in a 300-degree oven. Applesauce and sour cream are the traditional accompaniments.

1 pound Yukon Gold potatoes (about 2 medium), peeled
1 medium onion, peeled
2 large eggs, lightly beaten
1 teaspoon baking powder
Salt and pepper
Corn, vegetable, or canola oil, ½ inch deep in the skillet

Using the coarse grating disk in a food processor or the large holes on a box grater, grate the potatoes and onion. In a colander, briefly rinse the grated mixture under cool running water. Spread a clean kitchen towel on work surface, place the potatoes and onion in the center of the towel, gather the edges and corners, and twist hard over a sink to wring out as much liquid as possible. Empty the potatoes and onion into a large bowl, break up with a wooden spoon, add the eggs, baking powder, ¾ teaspoon of salt, and pepper to taste, and mix well.

In a large, heavy skillet (preferably cast iron) set over medium-high heat, heat the oil until it begins to ripple. Working carefully, test the heat of the oil by dropping in about 1 teaspoon of the potato mixture and gently pressing with a heat-proof spatula to make a quarter-sized latke -- it should sizzle instantly, but not violently. Fry for about 1¼ minutes on each side, remove it from the oil, drain on a paper-towel-lined plate, and taste for seasoning. Adjust the potato mixture with additional salt and pepper, if necessary.

Scoop a scant ¼ cup of the potato mixture into the skillet, press gently with the heat-proof spatula to form a round, flat cake; repeat until pan is filled, leaving about 1 inch between the latkes. Cook until the latkes are deep golden brown on both sides, about 4½ minutes, not moving the latkes except to flip them once halfway through the cooking time; adjust the heat as necessary. Remove the latkes to a paper-towel-lined plate, drain briefly, and serve at once (or keep warm in the oven while frying subsequent batches -- you may need to replenish the oil in the skillet).

Variation

Latkes with Carrot and Dill
Follow the recipe for Latkes, substituting ½ pound (about 3 medium) grated carrots for half of the potatoes and adding 5 tablespoons of finely chopped fresh dill to the potato mixture.

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